Royal Indulgence - Spa Ceylon

Spa Ceylon - Royal Indulgence Collection 2012

Research: Darts

Darts definition:

• Darts are construction details that shape fabric to the curves of the body. Darts can be straight (for an easy fit) or curved (for a closer-to-the-body fit). Darts are typically found in the bust, waist and hip areas, where the body is the most contoured.

Standard 4 Darts:

Arms Eye Darts:

Centre Front Darts:

H Darts:

French Darts:

Irregular Darts:

Princess Seam:

Vintage 1960s Princess Seam Dress

Research: Pleats

Pleating definition:

• A fold in cloth made by doubling the material upon itself and then pressing or stitching it into place.

Knife Pleat:

• A single pleat turned in one direction

Example of Knife Pleats

Knife Pleat skirt

Box Pleat:

• A fold in cloth made by doubling the material upon itself and then pressing or stitching it into place.

Box Pleat example

Nicola Finetti

Inverted Pleat:

• A box pleat reversed so that the fullness of the material is turned inwards.

Inverted Pleat example

Vikram Phadnis

Partial Pleat:

• Steam pressed pleat.

Papaya Clothing

Vera Wang

Projecting Pleat:

• Folds lifted from the surface of the fabric and arranged so that they stand out from the fabric itself. They include pinch pleats, organ pleats and cartridge pleats.

50s Vintage Hat

Nicolete Bakti

Accordion Pleat:

• A narrow pleat that, when used in series, resembles the bellows of an accordion, hence the name. Also called "sunburst pleat".
  
  
  
  

  

  American Apparel

  
  

  

  • Donna Karan

Wrinkled Pleat:

• This consists of irregular ridges made by securing damp, bunched fabric and leaving it to dry. It includes broomstick pleating where the fabric is rolled around a cylinder, when unwrapped, the folds all lie in one direction. Contortion pleating is where the fabric is twisted into a rope, coiled and knotted. When dry the folds lie in all directions. 

Modcloth

Safari inspired

Research: Knotting

Knotting definition:

• A compact intersection of interlaced material, such as cord, ribbon, or rope.
• A fastening made by tying together lengths of material, such as rope, in a prescribed way.
• A decorative bow of ribbon, fabric, or braid.
• A tight cluster of persons or things.

Burberry

Chanel

Jennifer Behr

Maya Hansen

Python

Salasai

Research: Layering

Layering definition:

• To divide or form into layers.
• To wear (clothing) in layers.

Layering in Fashion:

• Layered clothing is a manner of dressing using multiple garments that are worn on top of each other. Some of the layers have different, largely non-overlapping, functions. Using more or fewer layers, or replacing one layer but not others, allows for flexible clothing to match the needs of each situation. Two thin layers can be warmer yet lighter than one thick layer, because the air trapped between layers serves as thermal insulation.
  
  
  
  

  

  Hannibal Laguna (I seriously LOVE this dress!!)

  
  

  

  Missoni

  
  

  

  Myrza de Muynck

  
  

  

  Notebook Willow

  
  

  

  Oscar de la Renta

  
  

  

  Diesel, Proenze Schouler, Tory Burch, Proenze Schouler

  
  

Research: Boning

Boning definition:

• To remove the bones from.
• To stiffen (a piece of clothing) with stays, as of whalebone.

Boning in Fashion:

• In fashion, boning refers to rigid strips of material used to maintain the shape of a corset or bodice. Each strip of boning material is called a bone or a stay. The bones are sewn vertically into the fabric of a corset or bodice. Bones may also contribute to the cinching properties of a corset, depending upon its strength. Stays were historically made of whalebone, ivory, other types of bone, and wood, but today they are made primarily of steel or plastic.

• The earliest types of corsets, worn from the 16th to 18th century, were designed to transform the upper torso into a very stiff, inverted cone shape. For this reason, very tough materials were used as boning, and there was little room between bones. In addition to whalebone, great cane was a popular support material in early corsets.
• In the 19th century, corsets became less restrictive, and stays were often used only on the front of the corset. The first steel boning dates from around this time, and when whalebone became scarce and expensive in the latter 19th century, people looked to different materials for corsetry. Bones were sometimes made of cork, a plant fiber called Coraline, or Featherbone, made from the quills of feathers.
  
  
  
  

  

  Alexander McQueen

  
  

  

  Artifice Clothing

  
  

  

  Clairelafaye

  
  

  

  Flower Brocade Metal Boning

  
  

  

  Jasz Couture

  
  

  

  Maya Hansen

  
  

Research: Cording

Cording definition:

• To fasten or bind with a cord.
• To furnish with a cord.
• A slender length of flexible material usually made of twisted strands or fibres and used to bind, tie, connect, or support.
• A raised rib on the surface of cloth.
• A fabric or cloth with such ribs.

Cording in Fashion definition:

• Cord wrapped in fabric that's been cut on the bias - is an ancient embellishment that packs as much punch today as it did in the 1730's or the 1940's. Whether you use it to make appliqued motifs, corded pin tucks, frogs, spaghetti straps or piping, cording is one of the most versatile weapons in your sewing arsenal.
  
  
  
  

  

  Colette Patterns (I want to try this!!!)

  
  

  

  Indian Fashion

  
  

  

  KTZ

  
  

  

  Miss Selfridge

  
  

  

  Tim Van Steenbergen

  
  

  

  Victorian Beige Coutil Corset