Research: Bias Cut

Madelein Vionnet

Bias Cut definition:

• A term used when fabric is cut across the grain diagonally. This creates stretch to an otherwise stretch-less fabric. The result is a garment that clings to your curves.

How to do a Bias Cut:

• A bias cut is any direction in the fabric which does not exactly flow in the direction of the weft yarn (vertical yarns) or warp yarns (horizontal yarns) of a fabric. A true bias makes an angle of 45 degrees across the length and width of a fabric. Fabric cut on a bias has maximum stretch.Expensive due to it's inefficient use of fabric. Often used for silk or satin dresses for maximum slink factor. 

Interesting information:

• Madeleine Vionnet was one of the first designers to fully explore the way that bias cut fabrics could be used to create garments.  Before her designs, the technique tended to be used for trimmings only, but Vionnet used it to add an elegant swish to dresses and skirts that we take for granted nowadays. Madeleine Vionnet pioneered the bias cut, which made dresses hang more luxuriously. Popular in the 20's and 30's and now a dress signature of amongst others John Galliano. 
  
  
  
  
  
  

  

  Victor  Stiebel - 1930s

  
  

  

  Altuzarra

  
  

  

  Galliano

  
  

  

  Galliano

  
  

  

  Gert Van De Merwe

  
  

  

  J. Mendel